Sunday, April 13, 2008

Put Audio & Video on Your Web Site

As a company that sells streaming media services for a living, we get questions everyday about what needs to be done to make an audio or video presentation that will stream well over the Internet. Most of these inquiries come from small businesses with limited budgets for marketing and advertising. They are always pleasantly surprised when we tell them that they can do it themselves!

Lets start with an audio only presentation:

  • Write out your script first! Focus on two to three points that you feel are essential to explain your products or services. Keep the script simple. If your site offers a wide variety of goods or services, you might consider several different messages with each one keying in on one or two important areas.

  • Have someone who is not familiar with your business review the script and your site. Be sure that they understand your message. If they dont, rewrite it!

  • Practice reading the script until you feel completely familiar and comfortable with it. (You can hire professional voice talent for reasonable rates if youd prefer not recording the audio yourself.)

  • Use the best quality tape recorder available to you. A cassette recorder is fine.

  • Use a high quality brand name audiotape.

  • An external microphone that plugs into your recorder is preferable to the one that comes built-in. They are very inexpensive and produce a better recording.

  • Do your recording in a quiet place with as little background noise as possible. (That one seems pretty obvious, doesnt it?)

  • Speak naturally! It can help to have a friend or colleague act as an audience to give you focus.

  • Record your presentation several times. Select the one that will sound the most natural and inviting to your site visitors.

  • Send the tape to the encoding (streaming) vendor. Theyll take it from there!

A video presentation takes a little more time and effort, but you really can do it yourself. Your home video camera will work just fine! All of the same rules you used to make your audiotape apply here including the use of an external microphone. Good quality videotape is essential. The following suggestions will help you prepare a video presentation for your site that should stream very well:

  • Keep the camera steady! Put the camera on a tripod or brace it against something solid like a table or a wall. If you must pan or zoom, do it very slowly. (Too much motion can cause a blurry stream.)

  • Simplify your frame. Think about where everything is going to be. People coming in and out of the frame can create movement that may cause confusion.

  • Stay focused. A lot of auto-focus cameras cant focus properly if you are too close to your subject. Five or six feet away is a good distance. Dont try to shoot through a window; the camera will focus on the glass.

  • Good lighting is essential. Try to light your scene from the front. Dont stand in front of a window; the backlighting will cause you to be in silhouette. Try shooting outside if possible.

  • Use the fastest record speed. This will insure the best video quality.

  • Record in a quiet place. Hold the mike close to your mouth to cut down on external noises.

  • RELAX AND ENJOY YOURSELF! It really shows. Practice until you feel comfortable.

If you have additional questions or concerns, your streaming vendor should be ready and able to assist you.

Early adopters of Rich Media techniques, streaming being one of them, have already started to reap the rewards of higher click-through rates and increased conversion rates. If your message is meaningful and relevant to your site visitors, your streaming presentation will add to their enjoyment of visiting your site and encourage them not only to buy but also to return and buy again!

Ronni Rhodes is the owner of WBC Imaging, an Internet company that specializes in web site enhancement utilizing streaming media technology. With her husband, Don, a digital media engineer, they work with companies to incorporate streaming as part of successful and meaningful sales and marketing programs.

Please direct all questions and comments to: Ronni@wbcimaging.com 520-742-5780 http://www.wbcimaging.com

Do YOU Know The Difference?

It appears that the true definition of a certain type of online advertising is becoming a bit blurry around the edges, and I'm wondering, "Do you know the difference?"

It used to be that the answer was a resounding, "Yes!" but nowadays, especially if one is new online, the answer most likely is "No."

You're probably reading this article in an ezine, most likely a very popular ezine, that offers it's subscribers several advertising options, such as:

Top sponsor ads
Middle sponsor ads
Bottom sponsor ads
Paid classified ezine ads
Free classified ezine ads
and the ever popular Solo ad.

It's the solo ad I'd like to discuss today.

First, here's an across-the-board, true definition of a solo ad:

"A special offer or information about a product or service emailed to opt-in subscribers of ezines or online publications."

This is an acceptable practice because readers are typically informed when they subscribe that they can expect a solo ad mailing on occasion.

Most solo ads are purchased directly from the ezine itself because the publisher provides good prices and incentives for an advertiser TO purchase from them directly.

Publishers know what a solo ad is - because it is their "bread and butter" providing some form of income for that publisher as he or she slaves away producing their publication on a regularly scheduled basis. It "pays the bills" so to speak.

But, lately, I've noticed that the words "solo ad" are used when, in essence, it is not a solo ad at all. And it's not usually the publisher who is making this mistake.

Reread the definition above. It's a mailing that goes to an ezine subscriber list - typically a group of opt-in EZINE readers - on occasion.

Now let's look at the definition of two other types of advertising that lately are being called "solo ads" when in fact they are not.

SAFELISTS:

"Safelists are lists of email addresses consisting of people who join and agree to receive email from other members, and send email to other members."

This is bulk mailing with permission - truly nothing more, nothing less. While your ad may be the only one inside the email received, it is NOT a solo ad in the finest sense of the word because, in return, you agree to also be mass emailed by the others on that list.

It's sort of the equivalent to emailing your address book, but knowing your new online "friends" won't turn you in to your own isp.

F^FA MAILINGS/POSTINGS

"FF^As are nothing more than raw link pages. They often have no categorization, no review... and no traffic. On the plus side, many do offer marketers the gratification of instant submission -- something not found easily elsewhere -- although the gratification does not last long."

Again this is a type of bulk mailing and/or posting of one's website. This type of mailing also leads to the "poster" being hit by massive amounts of UNSOL^ICITED emails in return.

Neither of these two are true solo ads, and while the controlled and well-handled safelist can be a good way to advertise (provided your headline stands out enough to be seen, your offer is read, and you don't mind getting tons of email in return), it is NOT a solo ad.

DON'T BE FOOLED!

I'm seeing programs and offers stating "send your solo" when, in fact, the method more closely resembles the Safelist or FF^A.

Remember, a solo ad comes from an ezine publisher. For the advertiser, this is an excellent form of advertising since your ad will be seen by the readers of that publication.

A solo ads value is based on:

1. The fact it is a one-time mailing
2. It is sent to ezine readers looking for good offers
3. It does not generate massive amounts of unsolicited email to the advertisers inbox.

A solo ad IS a full page ad in a quality publication.

As a ezine co-op owner I also offer solo advertising at a discounted price agreed upon by the publisher. This is true solo advertising - right on down to paying each publisher on the advertisers behalf to run that advertisers solo.

Because the participating ezine publishers have agreed to work with me, they in essence have dropped the price they typically charge to the advertiser to allow that advertiser to contact their subscriber list. I'm just a third-party method of helping the publisher sell their "exclusive" commodity - the solo ad.

But it IS just that - a solo ad.

So, where and what to purchase? How can YOU ensure you are purchasing a true solo ad for yourself?

Start right here! Start with THIS ezine. Go check this publisher's rates first!

Why? Because YOU are reading this - and it's a good bet that others are, too!

A well-read publication is always a good starting place when beginning any advertising campaign!

Support your local publisher :)

And, remember, no matter where you end up as you surf the net, always purchase with your full understanding of what you are buying. Purchase wisely.

Sometimes it takes a bit of reading before you truly know the difference.

Theresa Cahill - All Rights Reserved. Feel free to distribute this article. Please keep it intact and with the resource box included below.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Theresa Cahill, a two decade veteran of marketing, is the owner of http://www.mywizardads.com and invites you to take a look at the services of MWA and download fr.ee helpful information and more at http://www.mywizardads.com/sitemap.html

How to Stencil Instructions - Add Old World Charm to Your New Home - Walls, Ceilings, Cabinets

In the beginning, gather your Supplies in one place
Gather Tools, Materials & Paints
Features of Unique Designs stencils:

Tools, Materials, Paints and How to Demonstration

1. Pre-cut stencil design - Many companies sell ready-made stencils through mail order including our company based out of Atlanta, Georgia. www.designershistoricalstencils.com Because our stencils are made of 7 Mylar a very thick and durable material, if you treat your stencil with care, your stencil will last many projects over the years.

2. Measuring tool or tape measure (for general measuring and measuring repeats) - Whether wall, ceiling, floor, or fabric, measuring tools are important to determine placement of the design on the substrate to be stenciled. For marking very large spaces such as a floor, you may need a chalk line or painters paper tape (found in most hardware stores or painter's stores, half gummed and half plain), to help keep lines straight (or big strong brother, Troy). (Figure C)

3. Level - A level is useful for creating horizontal stripes or vertical stripes on a wall. Also, keep in mind; you may need to use a level on a wall that is not quite square.

4. Painter's blue tape - Use to adhere stencil in place, check your work and reposition stencil several times as needed.

5. Spray adhesive - Many painters use spray adhesive when stenciling the larger intricate ceiling and border stencils that measure 3 feet wide. These stencils are now available for making larger projects quicker and easier to complete. Make sure you spray adhesive in a well-protected space with proper ventilation. While laying stencil flat on a sheet of craft paper (back-side facing up) and holding spray can several inches away, lightly spray stencil and allow adhesive to set up for a couple of minutes this will insure repositioning and a minimum of glue will rub on your wall. Also, please remember do not spray around pets (especially birds). Mineral spirits will completely remove adhesive from stencil once you are finished for the day.

6. Paper towels (prefer viva or strong thick paper towels) - Use paper towels to offload or rub excess paint from the brush. When using a dry brush technique, make sure you offload most of the paint until you can run your brush across your hand and the brush feels dry.

7. Small containers, plastic plate or paint tray - Used to add water, extender and to mix custom colors. Also, plate or tray is used to hold paint and load stencil brush.

8. Acrylic paint - Paints that are water-soluble, flow well and are sold by a wide range of manufacturers ranging from small craft bottles to artist's acrylic colors. Also, a wide variety of colors ranging from primary colors to an unlimited array of earth colors. As they dry very quickly it can sometimes help to mix in a small amount of acrylic retardant to delay the drying time. Keep in mind there are a wide variety of paints to choose from, I promote water-base paints, because they are easy to clean up with water, they can be thinned to various degrees with extender or water and they are fast drying. Whatever you choose, make sure you thin to consistency of ink and not too watery or it will bleed under the stencil.

9. Extender or acrylic medium
Acrylic retardant

10. Marking pen (for marking repeats on blue tape)

11. Poster board - It is important to use poster board to make samples for yourself or client. Not only will you be able to work out several color schemes and techniques, but you will also be able to practice with the new stencils.

12. Additional Tools
Painter's Stir Stick to add water and extender to paint and also to mix custom colors Water and water container for cleaning brushes and mistakes Clean Rags (for cleaning up and for drying brush)

Cleaning Instructions:
Because our stencils are made of 7 Mylar a very thick and durable material, if you treat your stencil with cards.newspicy.info/bank-of-america-online-banking-login-for-creditcards">care, your stencil will last many projects over the years.

Even when using a very dry brush for stenciling, you will still occasionally need to clean spots on the back of the stencil. Make sure after each print you check the back of the stencil, because any spots will certainly rub off on the wall. When using thick acrylic paints, you will need to clean your stencils after 4 or 5 imprints.

You will know when it is time to clean your stencil because your stencil will become sticky, and it is time to clean your stencil in order to get clean edges and professional results. At the cleaning stage, it is best to clean your stencil on a flat hard surface (in the bottom of your utility sink or outside on a flat table. Using warm soapy water (or solvent cleaner) gently rub paint off the stencil. You can remove paint by using a kitchen sponge, a scotch-brite pad, 220 grit sanding block or nail brush.

Be careful when cleaning your stencils, because some designs are very intricate with narrow bridges and these areas can tear or bend. Allow the stencil to dry, or dry with absorbent paper towels (Viva paper towels) before making any more prints on your substrate. When finished for the day, store stencils flat or hang stencil on a coat hanger.

If stencil paint was allowed to completely dry on your stencil, put your stencil in a plastic garbage bag, spray stencil with a household kitchen cleaner (409), let set up for 20 minutes and gently scrub with kitchen sponge. Rinse any residue left from cleaner.

Brush care
Be sure to clean your brushes thoroughly before drying and storing them. Rinse them in solvent needed for your paint (water for acrylics). Also, you can use a brush scrubber and many specialty products from your local arts and craft store to clean your brushes until the warm water runs clean over the bristles. Then allow brush to dry thoroughly before storing them.

If you take a break from your stenciling project, be sure to rinse brushes with water. Brushes should be washed in warm water immediately after use, as the paint is very difficult to remove if paint is allowed to harden on the brush.

Make sure before you begin stenciling again, dry brush on a rag, paper towel or use a hair dryer. Wet brushes are likely to result in blurred or different colored prints. Save time on your projects by using a different brush for each color.

Brushes (are available in a variety of sizes, experiment with your stencil on a poster board) Use soft to firm, short-bristled stencil Brushes (with stiff straight bristles) available in a wide variety of sizes (soft or firm brushes depends on the technique of the project. And brush size depends on the size of the openings in the pre-cut stencil).

Large Brushes (1 inch) are used for larger openings while detailed work or tiny openings require a small brush, of an inch and smaller.

Choose your Color Palette and Make a sample board.

Paint your sample board the same background color of your wall or ceiling surface. With the transparent technique, your background color will show through and be the undertone to all colors in your scheme.

Choose the appropriate sized brush for each color. At this time you may experiment with different color schemes.

Spray the stencil lightly on the back and allow to dry for 2 to 3 minutes to ensure the stencil will be repositionable. You may want to spray over paper and in a well-ventilated area. (Figure I.)
Layout Stencil Design

Measure the room.

Use a level to mark a guideline for stencil alignment. For borders, you may use the crown molding as your guide. Or if the ceiling and walls are level, you may use the top of the wall as your guide. (Figure P.)

Decide where you want to start the first repeat

In the center of the focal point wall
In the corner of the back wall and then wrap the room
Registration Marks

In the stencil industry, the triangle registration system is the standard. Registration marks are to help you repeat the design as well as align the design.

Wall Borders will have four triangles (2 marks on the left edge and 2 marks on the right edge) as shown in (Figure Q.)

Ceiling Medallions are one half of design and will have three triangles (one center mark on the outside edge of the design and two marks on the inside edge) as shown in (Figure R.)

Allover repeat patterns will have 6 triangles as shown in (Figure S.) Now We're Ready To Stencil

Place your first repeat securely down with repositionable stencil adhesive and/or blue painter's tape.

Notice all four triangles, two on the left of the design and two on the right of the design. Under each of the four triangles, place a piece of blue painters tape under each of the four triangles. With a marking pen, completely trace inside the triangles to form a smaller inside triangle on the blue tape, not the wall.

If you are afraid the blue tape will pull off the base color on the wall, and then remove some of the tacky feeling by sticking it to your arm first to remove some of the adhesive on the tape.

As you move from left to right, place additional stencil repeats over the previous two triangles on the left and continue placing blue tape under the next two triangles to the right as you mark each of the triangles as you go. When you are finished marking the entire room, you may proceed to the stenciling stage of the project. Loading and offloading your stencil brush

While always holding the brush straight up and down, dip the brush into the paint. This will allow for even loading of the paint. In a very firm and circular motion, blot off excess paint by rubbing the tip of the brush evenly on Viva paper towels.

You must have a very dry brush in order to achieve translucent paint effects. After repeating this step 2 or 3 times, you will notice most of the paint is rubbed onto the paper towels. If you pass your brush quickly over your hand, it will feel dry. You may begin to stencil with your first color. Stenciling Technique

To get a translucent paint effect, you may begin stenciling by first concentrating paint around the outer edges of the cutout areas, constantly moving the brush in small firm circles as you continue around each cut out of the design. If you would like the effect to be as translucent as possible, the majority of the stencil brush should be on the Mylar. (Shown in

As you move toward the center of the cut out area, use a lighter pressure and a dryer brush. By fading out the color from the edge to the center, you will give shape to the design.

Practice this technique on a sample board first. You will learn to adjust your pressure and placement of the brush to achieve the depth of color you are after.

Each time you reload the brush you must go through the same process of loading and off-loading the paint onto the Viva paper towels. As you move along, make sure you check under the stencil in order to see accurately and also to maintain a consistent print.

As you lift one edge of the stencil you will check to see the color is strongest at the outer edges and more transparent toward the center. No paint should bleed under the stencil.

If your stencil brush is built up with paint or is too dry, swipe your brush across a moist sponge. Then rub excess moisture on Viva paper towels.